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lawn and garden

Originally uploaded by art and chel

If it grows together, it goes together. Even the weeds in your lawn go with the vegetables in your garden. Here, a variety of tomatoes and tomatillos, herbs, chilies and your backyard chicken simmer away. When everything has sufficiently married, the tomatoes have begun to break down, a tangle of purslane, a common weed you may find in your lawn, is chopped into 4 inch sections and dropped into the stew. Put a lid over the pot and let the purslane steam until tender. The stew can be served as is with tortillas or with brown rice.

Imbibe: Your Garden


bloody mary

Originally uploaded by art and chel

It is mid-August and Zone 5 is blowing up. The hot weather and intermittent showers have brought forth juicy tomatoes by the bucket-load. It’s been a bit of a tomato rave around these parts with all of the salads, pastas, sauces, and gazpachos. When I transferred a load of ripe black cherry tomatoes into a gallon pitcher, I was reminded of two things: 1. How Bruce over at Chicago Green Roof Growers told me that I’d be amazed at these black cherry tomatoes when they start growing. I picked up my starter plants from him. 2. How great it would be if the pitcher holding the cherry tomatoes were transformed into a pitcher holding bloody mary mix. So! After some careful thought and calculations, The Pleasant House Black Cherry Bloody Mary Mix was born. Rich, tomato-ey, and spiked with Chelsea and Morgan’s grandpa’s horseradish and some rooster spur chili (thanks to Bruce once again) and few more “secret but not so secret” ingredients, this bloody mary mix is the summer garden deconstructed. That’s a little star-shaped basil ice cube that melts into the bloody mary as it is stirred. Oh, and it’s no secret that our bloody marys are mixed with gin, not vodka.

Saveur This!

Back in my pie-eyed days of State College, I looked for cooking inspiration anywhere I could find it. Around then I picked up a cooking magazine with a picture of a big pan of paella on its cover–lucky issue #13, dated July/August 1996. At the time I was working at a restaurant that made paella. This may not seem so strange in a big city, but in the Central Illinois home of my college, it was a pretty unique coincidence.

Long story short, this magazine represented pretty much everything that attracted me to food: diversity of cultures, authentic food and recipes, the real thing. I’ve stuck with Saveur through the years, and every now and then Chelsea and I either duplicate or adapt one of its recipes in our own kitchen, as I did with the latest issue, August/September, #131, “The Greece Issue.”

My first issue

I’ve been pulling three items in abundance from the garden lately: cherry tomatoes (black and red), cucumbers (slicing and Japanese), and eggplant (also Japanese). Ever since the Greece issue of Saveur arrived a couple weeks ago, I have been ogling its recipes, especially one for the decadently creamy and savory, stuffed and baked eggplant called papoutsakia. What a great way to use my eggplant! I followed the recipe mostly to a T. (Exceptions were that I sliced my eggplant in half length-wise, roasted them, and spooned out the pulp, which I then reincorporated into the filling. That was just a personal preference, as it created a creamier texture and I didn’t have to fry the eggplant. I also used ground lamb instead of ground beef.)
The Greek salad in the same issue, horiatiki, was also calling to me, so you can guess where the cukes and tomatoes ended up. A red torpedo onion, local sheep’s milk feta, and last year’s dried basil in lieu of oregano were my own minor alterations to the recipe. I admit that I never order Greek salads at restaurants, and after eating this rendition I will probably stick to my pattern. Unless I go to Greece.
My own cooking has come a long way since I discovered my first issue of Saveur. My dreams of owning a paella shop may have come and gone, but I get a little closer to realizing my dreams of visiting far-off places by preparing inspiring recipes from the magazine. Time and again, the writers and photographers capture and keep alive the essence of the recipes and their creators. One of the only things missing from the pages of Saveur is the tantalizing aromas and flavors of the food, but those are the rewards for recreating its recipes.

The proprietor of the gorgeous Acquaviva Winery in Maple Park, Ill., has brought the spirit of his family’s 100-plus-year-old winery in Italy to a small town in rural Illinois, 60 miles west of Chicago. Imagine the sight of towering fields of hybrid corn juxtaposed with fields of wine grapes and a solid stone winery amidst the blooming Illinois prairie.

When we lived in San Francisco, a friend of ours took Chelsea and me to the town where he grew up, Livermore, Calif., to experience the little wine community in the Livermore Valley. We visited a few wineries there, Wente being one of them. While driving through the country on the way to the vineyards, I was reminded of the area where I grew up in in rural Illinois. The crops are different, I thought, but this is still an agricultural area. The mannerisms and even the dress of some of the folks who poured wine at the Livermore wineries also reminded me of people I knew growing up.

This was all starting to make sense. Farmers grow and harvest their grapes, and then maybe they sell their juice on the market or process those grapes in their own facility and turn them into wine. That finished wine is then sold on the market and/or at their winery. It’s at the point when the product hits the store shelves and the white tablecloths that it becomes easy to forget how much blood, sweat, and tears may have gone into making that bottle. The beef on your plate, or a juicy tomato, has the same kind of story. From that point on I began my journey to better comprehend wine.

Since that trip to Livermore, I’ve tasted wines throughout the Sonoma and Napa valleys, and throughout Italy, France, and Spain. I’ve even tried my hand at making my own very basic wine. After all, as my talented sommelier friend, Linda Milagros Violago, has reminded me during conversations, what is wine but grapes and yeast. Of course, we all know that when it comes to seemingly minimalist endeavors, the devil is in the details. And many details, both big and microscopic, are responsible for getting those grapes and yeast to do what we want them to do: give us a good bottle of wine.

For me, Acquaviva is such a phenomenon that I wasn’t sure which direction to take this post. I could talk about the handmade wood-fired pizzas or the elaborate mural painted in the grand foyer of the winery. I could go on and on about having a real winery less than a half-hour away from where I grew up (a big deal for an area with a lot of growing room when it comes to “real” food and drink). I don’t write reviews of places because I leave that up to the professional critics. I write about anything having to do with food and wine that is significant and memorable to me.

Acquaviva is a solid Midwestern winery that produces all-estate wines, some of which I would (will) be happy to showcase on my menu. Why are they significant and memorable to such a discriminating connosieour as myself? All sarcasm aside, some of the Midwestern and Illinois wines I have tasted tend to be less than sophisticated. Some are mish-mashes of grapes or other fruits from around the area and fortified with obscene amounts of sugar and other cloying fruit juices. For me to take a wine seriously, it has to have been skillfully crafted every step of the way according to standards that are recognized throughout the world.

My first taste was of Acquaviva’s driest white, Prairie Star–made of the native varietal of the same name–which was bright and crisp with a bit of sweet fruit, dare I say prairie banana (a.k.a. paw paw). After that came its entire repertoire, three whites and three reds total. A list of Acquaviva’s wines and their accompanying tasting notes are available on Acquaviva’s Facebook page.

For anyone living in the area, I recommend a trip to this young winery for a taste of grapes grown in Illinois. My favorites were the Prairie Star, Frontenac, and Piacere. Check out more photos here.

Imbibe: Your Garden


cucumber martini

Originally uploaded by art and chel

We all know that you can eat your garden, but just to keep things exciting, I recommend drinking it every now and again, too. This is an adult beverage that is best savored after a long day of sweating in the garden under the hot sun. A simple gin martini–shaken, not stirred–with fresh cucumber and lime juices. You deserve it.

“Our cucumber crop is delicious! If only we knew how to grow gin.”–Chelsea

Christmas In July

Who doesn’t love a theme? The best themed events are those that aren’t forced and instead come together organically. I admit, I’ve had the idea of having a Christmas in July party for quite some time now–in fact, for about a year-and-a-half, ever since Chelsea’s English (figgy) pudding began curing in the refrigerator.

Right before Christmas 2008, Chelsea prepared two figgy puddings with the intention of steaming one for the upcoming Christmas and the other for the following Christmas. We steamed the first one for Christmas 2008. When July 2009 rolled around, I saw the pudding in the back of the fridge and suggested we steam it. When Christmas 2009 rolled around, once again I thought of steaming it up. But another Christmas came and went.

This July, my distant cousin Baz and his friend Lyndsay from Sheffield and Darbarshire England, respectively, visited America for the first time. They stayed with us for a long Fourth of July weekend, which allowed them to join in our neighborhood garden party with friends and food. I roasted a whole goat in the Caja China and guests brought dishes to pass. During the planning stages of the event I thought of other things to serve and the elusive figgy pudding again caught my eye. A fresh cucumber growing in the garden and a hankering by all for Pimm’s Cups helped to inspire a signature cocktail called the Stroppy Sheep.

English house guests, a box of leftover Christmas crackers, the makings of an English garden, fireworks, Stroppy Sheep, July, flambeed dessert. This was the perfect recipe for a Christmas in July.

flaming figgy pudding

Baz, Lyndsay, Chelsea

‘Twas the night of the Fourth and all through the garden
A goat had been roasted and Stroppy Sheep toasted.
Beer kegs blew and bottle rockets flew,
The streets were littered with shrapnel like World War II.
Friends were made, Ranchera was played
And at the darkest of night it was the moment of truth.
We’d douse the pudding with 101 proof.
Then out on the lawn there arose such a clatter.
As the figgy pudding glowed and the crackers snapped,
Everyone gathered proceeded to clap.
Christmas in July, what better way to celebrate the Fourth of July?

Link to the recipe for Stroppy Sheep here.

Braised: Goat Tacos


goat tacos

Originally uploaded by art and chel

A shoulder from the previously roasted whole goat was braised in cast iron over the grill. The pot was lined with banana leaves and filled with goat stock, guajillo chili, garlic, onion, tomato, and beer. The tender nature of the meat makes for DIY tacos at the table.

Roasted: Goat


roasted goat

Originally uploaded by art and chel

Crispy, tender, succulent. Marinated with olive oil, rosemary, and sea salt. Basted with melted butter, crushed garlic, lemon, lime, orange, sea salt, and Ethiopian peppercorn.

Nice to Meet You

I enjoy rooting for new restaurants that open in both my own city and places I’ve never visited–often through their blogs, Flickr, Facebook, and Twitter sites, and those of other food industry entities and people across America and around the world.

A restaurant opening these days serves not only a local demographic but also, virtually, anyone else who is interested. The “fine food” world is a small one, made even smaller by easy travel, professional dedication to various styles of cuisine, and the Internet. Cooks from around the country and around the world may share a certain style, gain inspiration from similar places, and have a similar food philosophy. We’re starting to see restaurants personified, and we want to get to know them.

anchovy, avocado, and tomato crostini, Ruxbin

Most people look at restaurants as strictly eating places. This is good because, ultimately, restaurants make money by selling meals. But to me, restaurants, bakeries, markets, and bars are so much more than just places to eat and drink. They’re kind of like friends: I can follow the progress of their projects and performance from idea to fruition, from pre-construction to opening. I can keep up with what the fans and critics are saying about them–made easier thanks to the Internet–and on occasion I can visit them in person.

The eventual firsthand experience is like hearing a favorite band play live for the first time. By sitting down to a first meal or first cocktail, I’ve filled the role of the customer; much like at a concert, my connection to that restaurant has come full circle.

For every restaurant that closes or struggles every day, a new one opens. Many of these new restaurants are probably finding more visitors online than they could possibly fit inside their establishments, which should hopefully give them something to count on in the days to come.

Ruxbin, a Chicago newcomer, is one restaurant that I’ve been following lately. It has made friends with a few people and has been telling tales of its pre-opening adventures for some time. Its blog seemed to extend a warm invitation to stop by, so we did on Sunday. Chelsea and I sampled some elegantly presented, non-fussy, delicious dishes with unique flavor combinations. Tinges of Korean, French, Mexican, and American cuisine were apparent on the menu and clearly identifiable in the dishes. The room was a sweet little piece of eye candy a la Alter Ego Form, who also designed one of our favorite neighborhood bars, Simone’s. While Alter Ego Form most likely delivered the entire design vision, I remember seeing the folks at Ruxbin, via the restaurant’s blog, decoupaging their ceiling with pages from old cookbooks to add a bit of their own personality to the design.

decoupage ceiling of cookbook pages, Ruxbin

The love of food is a pastime not unlike other forms of entertainment. For some of us, our attraction to food is made more exciting by reading about it, planning our day or a vacation around it, and now, engaging through the Web with others who are immersed in it. As long as technology is leading to a revived excitement about real food and cooking, I’d say that it is being used, in this case, for all the right reasons.

I will say, right off the bat, that when someone tells you they are going to show you the “real” anything, it means that they are unabashedly biased and passionate about the subject, whether it be their favorite dish, sport, motorcycle, or in this case, a state, city, and region. It’s important to preface this post with such a disclaimer so as not to offend anyone who may live in other parts of the beautiful and unique State of Florida.

Chelsea and I had only a few days to spend with her brother Morgan, our friends Tim and Nicole, and Morgan’s posse who live in and around the Tallahassee area of Florida’s panhandle. We were excited to learn that Morgan had mapped out our stay in advance and that our exciting ride would be devoid of pirates, gigantic personified rodents, magical castles, expensive tickets, and long lines. Instead, our journey would involve poisonous snakes, meat-eating plants, magical forests, and gigantic sea cows.

carnivorous pitcher plant

copperhead, a poisonous snake

The area we visited around Tallahassee, and much of the entire Florida panhandle, is considered to be a global hot-spot of biodiversity. Chelsea and I will admit that going to Florida came with the prospect of going swimming. In the end, we went swimming, but not on a manmade, white sand beach, and there were no palm trees. Our swimming took place in and among the waterways, the backdrop composed of the flora, fauna, and wildlife of this incredibly lush and delicate ecosystem that stretches from the forest to the Gulf of Mexico.

The real Florida, I would learn, has more than 10,000 natural springs that flow out of the porous limestone and clay earth. Groundwater trickles out of rock faces called steepheads and cuts ravines into the forest that support endangered wildlife and plant-life that are unique to these micro-environments. Some species of salamanders, for example, can only be found in the isolated pools of a particular steephead. In Morgan’s words, this area is “a pliopleistocene sand deposit, deposited roughly 10,000 years ago during the last ice age…northern tree species migrated south and got stuck in ravine forests (beech-magnolia forests) when sealevels dropped as glaciers melted. They are fractal-like in composition, rare in nature!”

Morgan’s friend Daniel lives in and tends to a sizable chunk of steephead forest, and he and his wife, Mary, educated us about the area even more during our visit to their property. We admired some baby hummingbirds above their back porch as well as impressive pyramid magnolia trees, Florida anise, and oakleaf hydrangea.

While later canoeing down the tranquil, Jules Verne-esque Wakulla River, a crisp natural spring itself, Chelsea came face-to-face with a large manatee. The gentle endangered beast bumped the middle of the canoe, raised its face out of the water, and spun around onto its back. Human interaction with manatees is highly discouraged, as there are only a few thousand of these animals left in the wild, and some fear they could become too used to humans. Manatees can often be identified by their scars, a result of being gashed by motorboat propellers. I guess humans have been known to love things to death.

Wakulla River

A trip to Apalachicola on the Gulf Coast revealed white sandy beaches, but not like the ones I’m used to seeing in Miami. These northern gulf beaches are lined with dunes and native foliage. The sand of these dunes and beaches were not trucked in or dredged up from the ocean itself, but carried through the earth from the very forests that we visited an hour or so inland by way of springs and groundwater. It was nice to find that the water temperature of the gulf is extremely warm compared to that of the natural springs, which is very cool and crisp. The springs also had a therapeutic effect on me, making my skin and hair feel fresh and clean–kind of like all the feelings of Irish Spring, without the soap.

sand dunes, Gulf of Mexico, St. George Island

Morgan also took us to farmers’ markets; fish markets that specialize in gulf seafood; his friend Ben’s mushroom farm, Manatee Mushroom Farm; and Ben’s intensive home garden. While my cold-weather greens were bolting and tomato seedlings were just getting used to the outdoors back in Chicago, it was incredible to see tomatoes already ripening on the vine, ripe peaches, and squash vines proliferating from a compost pile like a gigantic octopus. We munched on freshly picked carrots and spotted an endangered gopher tortoise hanging out in the garden. There is one downfall to touring such an amazing garden: bugs and mosquitoes. Chelsea sustained some pretty big mosquito welts, but it was good to learn that tiger balm delivers quick relief.

gopher tortoise

We celebrated our last night in Tallahassee at Morgan’s friend Beau’s house. I already waxed about that meal and couldn’t think of a more real experience to celebrate our introduction to the “real Florida.”

What does “real” mean to me now, after I’ve interpreted it through the eyes of those who call it so? It means real beautiful, fragile, unique, fascinating, and worth preserving. Morgan is also drawn to the great music scene and sense of community that exists there. If you get a chance, check it out for yourself. Thanks to Morgan, Tim, Nicole, Beau, Josh, Daniel, Mary, Ben, Grant, and anyone we may have missed.

Morgan’s Florida links:

www.gue.com
The Woodville Karst Plain Project is a nonprofit affiliate of Global Underwater Explorers. The WKPP mission is to explore, survey, connect, and protect the flooded underwater cave systems of North Florida’s Woodville Karst Plain.
www.fl-dof.com
Tate’s Hell State Forest is one continuous tract of land comprising more than 202,000 acres. Conquering this wet and seemingly unproductive area for timber production was the focus of the timber industry from the 1950s until the early 1990s.
www.fs.fed.us
Proclaimed as a National Forest in 1936, the Apalachicola National Forest is the largest forest in Florida, at 571,088 acres, which includes 2,735 acres of water.
www.nwflec.com
www.music.fsu.edu
www.bearcreekmusicfestival.com
www.youtube.com
www.engineroomsounds.com
Trial By Stone is an ongoing collection of musicians looking to create and push reggae/dub music to new heights and levels.
http://thesoularsystem.com

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